It's a chilling, educational, important and memorable experience. Austria Reviews. So far I have us flying into Prague, spending 3 or 4 nights, taking a driver to Salzburg (Or an overnight train to Salzburg?) You'll still see the traditional Fuhr boats, designed to carry heavy loads in shallow water. to 400 B.C. If no one cares enough to make the payment, you're gone. If you have yet to tour a salt mine, consider visiting Hallstatt's, which is still active, producing 1.1 million tons of salt each year (mostly used for road salt, though you can also buy souvenir shakers of table salt). Rick: OK. Nannerl called this portrait the best ever done of her brother. Rick Steves' Europe. In fact, because of the salt-mining importance here, an entire age — the Hallstatt Era, from about 800 B.C. Strategic advice from Rick Steves on what's worth your time and money; Short itineraries covering Munich, Bavaria, Rothenburg and the Romantic Road, the Rhine Valley, and Berlin, plus Salzburg, Austria; Rick's tips for beating the crowds, skipping lines, and avoiding tourist traps; The best of local culture, flavors, and haunts, including walks through museums and atmospheric neighborhoods In this case, while Salzburg leaves me cold, I did manage to find plenty to like about it. Its bone chapel — or charnel house (Beinhaus) — contains more than 600 skulls (free to enter church, but small fee for bone chapel; open daily May–Sept 10:00–18:00, Oct 10:00–16:00, closed Nov–April). On balmy summer evenings, this brewery has the ambience of a Renoir painting as all generations gather under the chestnut trees, as they have for centuries, to enjoy cheap food, good beer, and that special local coziness called "Gemütlichkeit." This collection of lovingly tended graves abuts the sheer rock face of the Mönchsberg (free, silence requested). In the year 700, its Bavaria rulers gave control of Salzburg to the local bishop in return for his promise to defend and expand Christianity in the area. As is often the case in rowdy European eateries like this, you share tables...and make new friends. ▲ Panorama Museum Wrap-around painting offering vivid peek of the city as it appeared in 1829.. ▲ Mozart's Residence Restored house where the composer lived. In Salzburg we'll explore its delightful Old Town, enjoy Mozart in a palace, and relax in a sun-dappled beer garden. Rick Steves Best of Germany: With Salzburg Hit Germany's can't-miss art, sights, and bites in two weeks or less with Rick Steves Best of Germany! Archaeologists claim that since 7000 B.C., people have come here to get salt. Herr Sporer: Yes, there are many fruits in Austria and we distill almost everything. Wealthy as those guys were, when they ran out of caring relatives, they were dug up, shipped out, and their fancy tombstones ended up on the wall. They dissolved it into a brine, which flowed through miles of pipes — the oldest hewn out of logs — to Hallstatt and nearby towns where the brine was, and still is, cooked until only the salt remained. Enter the cathedral and you're immersed in pure Baroque grandeur. ▲▲ Salzburg Cathedral Glorious, harmonious Baroque main church of Salzburg. The tiny train station is across Lake Hallstatt from the postcard-pretty town by the same name: Hallstatt. Rick: So there's many different kinds of schnapps? Vienna. Family of five (two young adults, one teen) Stuttgart and Munich advice. I'm Rick Steves. The birthplace of Mozart — and everyone's Sound of Music fantasies — Salzburg is a Baroque jewel of a town. Prost! To build "the Rome of the North.". Herr Sporer: You sip it, yes. Imagine how expensive this massive fortress was to build...and it was never really used in battle. This one dates from 1597. Rick Steves Vienna, Salzburg & Tirol book. Salzburg's wealth was based on salt. You don't throw it down, you sip it. Hi, I'm Rick Steves, back with more of the best of Europe. The Hohensalzburg Fortress towers 400 feet above the Salzach River. The exhibits are aimed a bit more toward the Mozart connoisseur than those at Mozart's Birthplace, but the place comes with a good introductory video, is less crowded, and includes an informative audioguide. Herr Sporer: Apple and pear, yes. Salt — so precious as a preservative in pre-refrigerator days — was a huge part of this region's economy all the way back to pre-historic times. For fans, it's almost a pilgrimage. They remembered us because of my husband's guide dog. Waiters only bring beer; they don't bring food — instead, go up the stairs, survey the hallway of deli counters, grab a tray, and assemble your own meal (or, as long as you buy a drink, you can bring in a picnic — many do). Try Rick Steves Best of Germany . Today, its three floors house rooms with exhibits displaying paintings, letters, personal items, and lots of facsimiles, all attempting to bring life to the Mozart story. Though I don’t consider it my job to breathlessly promote every destination that comes down the pike…rather, I try to give hard opinions in the spirit of the king of hard travel opinions, Rick Steves. Each of the several hundred painted skulls has been lovingly named, dated, and decorated. Through the centuries, Hallstatt was busy with the salt trade. The energetic Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich, who ruled around the year 1600, had the greatest impact on the town. A series of interconnecting squares lead from here through the Old Town. His goal? Zum wohl! For centuries, Salzburg's leaders were both important church authorities and political rulers. It's the easiest and best experience if you have an iPhone, iPad, iPod Touch, or Android. The well dipped into a rain-fed cistern. Hallstatt's Catholic church overlooks the town from above. From the castle take a stroll across the forested Mönchsberg hill for a breezy respite from the city, and more commanding views. Rich guys' fine Renaissance-style tombs decorate the chapel walls. It was here that Mozart learned to play piano and violin and composed his first boy-genius works. Rent bills are sent out about every 10 years. It's one of many throughout the region that offer tours. Salzburg and Vienna will always have part of my heart! Wolf Dietrich was raised in Rome, counted the powerful Medicis in Florence as his buddies, and had grandiose Italian ambitions for Salzburg. Cargo boats would float downstream and be dragged back upstream by horse. Tucked away in the heart of the Old Town and abutting the rock wall of Mönchsberg is St. Peter's Cemetery. One of Europe's mightiest castles, it dominates Salzburg's skyline. Rick Steves' Europe. Share hotel & restaurant reviews. ▲ St. Sebastian Cemetery Baroque cemetery with graves of Mozart's wife and father. The town, which originated as a salt-mining center, is one of Europe's oldest, going back centuries before Christ. Since it had no road access, people came and went by boat. Pop into the fishery — two men have a license to harvest the lake of its plankton-fed Reinanke fish — much prized by local restaurants. The banks of the Salzach River — ideal for strolling and biking — were once medieval tow paths. The hills are alive with the sound of music... …was named after this once-important spot. It's also the springboard for lots of alpine fun — from thrilling summer bobsledding, to idyllic boat rides in the Salzkammergut lake district, to exploring the delightful romantic town of Hallstatt. There's no audioguide, but everything's described in English. Is that right? The constantly flowing water flushed out the streets, provided fire protection, and powered factories. Last time I stayed in the Hotel Elephant, and it was very good, small rooms, central and it had air conditioning..which many in old bldgs do not have. Today, Salzburg's pride in Mozart shows itself best not in museums but in live concerts. Follow me for a little walk and enjoy a rare opportunity to drill deep into the mausoleum of a prince-bishop. In the tour you'll learn the story of salt. Enjoy the lake-country view as you're dragged up the mountain. It was the harnessing of wind and water power with mills like this that helped kick the economy into gear and lift Europe out of what many call the "Dark Ages." It’s known for its hilltop fortress, Baroque architecture, old town, and hometown genius, Mozart. The courtyard was the main square of this hilltop community of a thousand — which could be self-sufficient when necessary. Lying on a busy trade route connecting northern Europe with the south, Salzburg was well aware of the exciting things going on in Italy. We have been traveling “Rick’s style” for 20+ years and love it. ©2021 Rick Steves' Europe, Inc. | The next day, in Salzburg we parked our bikes at the Augustinian monastery where, once upon a time, the monks (must have been the most popular monks in town) brewed a heavenly beer. Amidst all the tourists and chain outlets, its classy shops and traditional wrought-iron signs give it a touch of elegance. These canals powered about 100 watermills in Salzburg, which were busily cranking as late as the 19th century. The Sporer family has been distilling schnapps and selling it from this friendly hole in the wall for just over a hundred years. Salzburg's cathedral, constructed in the early 1600s, was one of the first grand Baroque buildings north of the Alps. Set your sights on the spire of the Augustinian Church, and you'll find what seems like half of Salzburg feasting and drinking. Restaurant Bräugasthof, lakeside and under a grand chestnut tree, is just the place to try some of Lake Hallstatt's prized fish. If you look at the map of Austria, the closest big city to it is Linz, which is pretty much 1/2 way in between Vienna and Salzburg. sights of Salzburg and surrounding countryside. Buy your token, choose a mug —two choices: big and HUGE, give it a rinse…and fill 'er up. This time we're in the land of Mozart…it's Salzburg. Learn more about the Rick Steves Audio Europe app or download the app now: Prefer podcasts? The countryside around Salzburg has plenty of farmhouse B&Bs. Surveying the town, you can imagine Salzburg through the ages. He has a mysterious mansion at the edge of town, sponsors the local “Red Bull” soccer and hockey teams, owns several chic Salzburg eateries and cocktail bars, and employs 6,000 mostly good-looking people. Get inspired with Rick Steves’ recommended places to go and things to do, with tips, photos, videos, and travel information on Salzburg. ... Last May we found ourselves in Salzburg with another couple. The one in Strobl near Wolfgangsee is about twice as long, and more scenic, with grand lake views. ▲ Mönchsberg Walk "The hills are alive" stroll you can enjoy right in downtown Salzburg. My Account. Rick: Good. Salzburg is forever smiling to the tunes of Mozart and The Sound of Music. See the Travel Details above for recommendations highlighted in bold, excerpted from Rick's guidebooks. ▲ Mirabell Gardens and Palace Beautiful palace grounds and concert venue with fine views and Sound of Music memories. The building itself, bombed in World War II, is a reconstruction. Then train to Vienna for 3-4 nights. It's Sunday morning. You go to experience a town that, in spite of the crowds, is thoroughly enjoyable. Find all the books, read about the author, and more. Later, miners dug tunnels to extract the salty rock. The town's decorative woodwork, a tradition that dates back centuries, reflects the wealth salt brought. The Catholic church overlooks the town from above. This family portrait shows Mozart with his sister — he was proud of his first-ever compositions for four hands, his father (also a fine musician and composer), and his mother, who died two years earlier in Paris. Rick Steves is America's leading authority on European travel. For coronavirus (COVID-19) travel information, Its ramparts provide the best views of the city. The New Town has the big business and train station, but the Old Town, sitting between the Salzach River and a hill called Mönchsberg, holds nearly all the charm...and most of the tourists. A steep funicular runs up the mountain to Hallstatt's salt mine. Music and the visual art complement each other. See search results for this author. Stefanie (a boat) meets each arriving train and glides scenically across the lake into town. The Triton matches Bernini's famous Triton Fountain in Rome. Rick: And what is schnapps? Rick Steves' my way alpine Europe in 12 days. To get to the Panoramabar from the main part of the library, you take a diagonally-moving elevator, which was a new experience for me. The organ loft fills the church with glorious sounds as Mozart, 250 years after his birth, is still powering worship with his musical genius. (17:24). Share your candid opinions about hotels and restaurants or ask other travelers about their reviews. ▲▲▲ Salzburg Town Walk Old Town's best sights in handy orientation walk (outlined in my guidebooks, and available as a free audio tour). While its popularity has led to a glut of businesses hoping to catch the tourist dollar, Salzburg is nevertheless both a must and a joy. Allow about three hours total for the round-trip funicular ride, viewpoint visit, and 1.5-hour salt-mine tour. When it's cool outside, enjoy a historic indoor setting in any of several beer-sloshed and smoke-stained halls (one of which is still for smokers). Thanks to its formidable fortress and its knack for remaining neutral, the city managed to avoid the ravages of war until World War II. Rick Steves has spent 100 days every year since 1973 exploring Europe. Terms of Service | Privacy, Salzburg, Austria: Hohensalzburg Fortress and Mönchsberg, Salzburg, Austria: Music, Lakes and Mountains, Salzburg, Austria: Sampling Schnapps on Getreidegasse. ▲ DomQuartier Museums Prince-Archbishop Wolf Dietrich's Residenz palace, cathedral viewpoint, and religious art. Plan your own trip or take one of Rick's value-packed European tours and vacations. You don't go to Salzburg to avoid the tourists. Local students mix with tourists eating hearty slabs of grilled meat with their fingers or cold meals from the self-serve picnic counter, while children frolic on the playground kegs. ▲▲ Hellbrunn Palace Lavish palace on the outskirts of town featuring gardens with trick fountains. Each summer it hosts its famous Salzburg Festival. In Rick Steves Vienna, Salzburg & Tirol you'll find in-depth Rick-tested information on:. You can count on Rick Steves to tell you what you really need to know when visiting Salzburg and Hallstatt.Rick covers the essentials, including Berchtesgaden and the Salzkammergut. Until next time...keep on travelling. Visit the grand cathedral (where Mozart performed) and Mozart’s childhood homes. Pondering the old-time signs — which were advertising back in the days when most shoppers couldn't read — you can almost imagine strolling here looking for a sturdy pair of boots, a stylish dirndl, or even a little schnapps. Rick: So this is apple and pear? Lightweight, yet packed with info on the cities' history and culture, Rick Steves Pocket Munich & Salzburg truly is a tour guide in your pocket. In the 13th century, Salzburg was plumbed with a clever canal system, which has brought water into Salzburg from nearby hills ever since. Good ones, like this one near the town of Werfen; give you a chance to experience the richness of Austria's rural life. Space in Hallstatt's well-tended graveyard was so limited that bones had only about 12 peaceful, buried years here before making way for the freshly dead. To properly enjoy this lavish palace — once the prince-archbishop's summer palace and now the seat of the mayor — get a ticket to a Schlosskonzert (my favorite venue for a classical concert; the palace is otherwise closed to visitors). Donate to the band, and a maiden gives you a shot of schnapps. While this particular tunnel dates only from 1719, Hallstatt's mine claims to be the oldest in the world. And the Steckerlfisch...now that's my kind of fish stick! Very much worth it is the train ride to Prien am Chiemsee, from there on to Schloss Herrenchiemsee and Frauenwörth Abbey - this trip can also be done just as easily from Munich. Fair enough. In 1747, Leopold Mozart — a musician in the prince-archbishop's band — moved into this small rental unit with his new bride. Nine years later, a little boy was born — Wolfgang Amadeus Mozart. With the scarcity of level land, tall homes had their front door on the street level top floor and their water entrance several floors below. Those Augustinians must have been the most popular monks in town for their rollicking beer garden. And while you await your strudel, you can feed the swans. If you're driving between Salzburg and Hallstatt, you'll pass two luge rides operated by the same company; each course is just off the road with easy parking. The other couple chose the restaurant and it was Wilder Man. This time we're in the land of Mozart…it's Salzburg. Most of the happy tourists probably wouldn't be here if not for the man honored by this statue. But throughout his youth, he called Salzburg home. Home Salzburg Hallstatt Dolomites Fussen Lauterbrunnen Valley Chamonix Salzburg's Hohensalzburg Fortress ... Salzburg of course is the birthplace of Mozart and known for music. It seems each plot is lovingly tended by relatives. In the fall of 1773, when Wolfgang was 17 — and his family was flush with money from years of touring — the Mozarts moved here from their cramped apartment on Getreidegasse. we drove from Salzburg; it was easy (something like under 2 hours, as I recall), but do know people who did it by train. Its name basically means "salt fortress." The regulars here know that there are enough flavors of schnapps to keep them coming back again and again. The surrounding Mirabell Gardens, laid out in 1730, are a favorite with locals and tourists alike. This huge 1,000-seat beer garden within a monk-run brewery in the Kloster Mülln, is rustic and raw. see our FAQ. The core of this book is five self-guided walks and tours that zero in on Munich's greatest sights and neighborhoods, plus two chapters on the best day trips (to Salzburg and to Neuschwanstein Castle). Extending your trip? 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